Fastener Torque Specifications
| Use this as a quick torque guide for your Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth. Most of the torque specs in this writeup are for OEM bolts and a few known aftermarket ARP bolt kits. For non OEM fasteners not on this list, please refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. |
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-ARP Main Studs 4 bolt 80 Ft lbs In 3 steps ARP Lube -ARP 2000 Rod Bolt 3/8" 55 Ft lbs In 3 steps ARP Lube -OEM Head Bolts Twin Turbo 90 Ft Lbs in 3 steps - break loose - 2 steps to 95 Ft lbs 30 wt oil Final Tq to 105 Ft Lbs for Extra clamping force. Do Not Exceed 105 ft lbs. -ARP/Ninja Performance 6G72 91-92 TT 2 Bolt Main Stud Kit - Studs go into block finger tight and backed out slightly to allow the bolt threads to reach beyond the girdle, then tighten nuts in 3 steps - 30/60/90 ft/lb. Using supplied ARP Torque Lube on threads and on both faces of washers. -Ninja Performance 4340 Chromoly Steel Forged Rods 6G72 ARP 2000 Rod Bolts - 50-55 ft lbs using the supplied ARP Ultra Torque Lube. ******************** Coolant Push Fix - Copper Oringing Posted this on the 3S forums, but many don't do forums, or not anymore. So I will post the info here. This is just for info for anyone reading, I know many are aware of how to fix this issue. And there is more than one way to skin a cat. So this isn't a here is how to fix it cause you don't know. I have always liked to test things and if it works share the info with anyone interested. I get asked many times a month via FB, email, PM here, how to do the copper oring fix that I have run for so many years. I think it is going on 6+ years now. So I wanted to make a thread just for it so is would be here for searching. Personally, this has worked for me, and now tested over many many years and LOTS of hard 36-38psi track runs and street driving, wringing the 3.0L out for all she's got. She runs 10.31 @ 144 mph consistently (on 6 yr old Dunlop Direzza Star Specs) Oring block, heads are stock. Never tried the Ray pinning fix but that would probably make it even more resistant to coolant push. No receiver in heads. *Dead soft Copper .051" Diameter - Buy At McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#8873k13/=s49oy2 *Receiver groove in block .039" wide and deep Leaving .012 copper wire above deck height *You will need to find a machine shop with the Fixture for Oringing cast iron blocks. Not all machine shops have them. Machine shop shouldn't charge more than $150 or so to cut the grooves. They will need an OEM head gasket as they will cut the groove in the center of the fire ring. A used one is fine as long as the OEM fire ring is still in good enough shape to measure. New OEM head bolts New OEM head gaskets Check Heads and block for flatness. Use heads that have no more than 2 very light decking done, 1 is even better. * Install copper wire into block. Use plastic dead blow to lightly tap into place as you do not want to flatten the roundness of the wire or lessen the above deck interference fit. Install wires so all seams are exactly at a head bolt. Install wires so that seams for side by side cylinders are not close to each other. Seams need to be TIGHT. This will take practice and you will ruin some wire trying to get it right. Too tight and they will buckle, too lose and the seam will be a gap. They have to but up tight but without buckling. Find a good length that is just a tad longer than needed and keep that as a template to cut your sire lengths. Use a piston to wrap around to make them circular. Make sure to make/file ends at a 90 degree angle just like filing piston rings. * install heads with new OEM head bolts (A-1 even better but impossible to find, but never ARP) * Torque head bolts to 105 ft lbs w/ straight 30W oil (same steps as normal) * Bring car to operating temp, let engine cool 24 hours * Check all head bolts and tq 105 ft lbs. DO NOT loosen, just set Tq Wrench to 105 ft lbs and in sequence check all head bolts. There is normally 2-3 on each head that will be under 105 ft lbs due to the copper orings. And that's it. It's pretty simple and has worked for me over he years. I have for the past 8 years tried a lot of things. OEM Hgs with SS rings, Copper HGs with SS rings. ARP head studs. Cometic head gaskets (run away). This seems to do the trick. Unless of course you step over the tuning line. Detonation is going to lift heads. Period. No matter what you do. The cylinder pressure that creates can not be contained. The copper orings are replaced everytime the head comes off. They are originally .012 off deck height. The head Install and torque flattens the roundness of the copper wire (why you need to use dead soft copper as noted). And smashes it down a tad. So every rebuild/cylinder head removal, you pull the old rings out, and install new ones. It's pretty simple. Hard atj times to get the removal of a ring started, but once you have an end up they pull rigt out. I normally launch 5500rpm at 30psi then run 38psi to 9200rpm, I have accidentally run 42psi, yes the turbos are still efficient there and calculations and PTE say probably 44 to 46psi, and never a problem. I spent literally years trying every bolt, hg, wire type, expensive blue gasket spray (if memory serves it was like $60 worth of spray for the two hgs)developed by, made for Rolls Royce and pure copper shim HGs with and without Stainless steel wire orings , every tq level, different re torque strategies after first heat cycle with and without coolant , and finding the torque yield of oem head bolts, it's 115 +- 3 on properly calibrated tools, so I found with manufacturing variences , temperature variences in tools and bolts when assemblimg, that the safe spot and max clamp before yield on NEW OEM head bolts was 105 ft lbs. 90 first go, 1 heat cycle , cool 24 hour, same torque sequence re torque 105 ft lbs. Not all will be loose. But cause the dead soft copper rings are ..dead soft...the squeeze flat, putting extra clamp force on the ss firing ring in the OEM HG, but since copper and soft after the first heat cycle a few bolts will be ever so slightly loose, so since you are going to do the re torque after heat cycle it's better imo to do 90 first so more will be evidently loose when you re torque to 105 and if your tq wrench isn't dead nuts perfect it may not see a bolt loose if the first tq was set at 105 and the copper compressed making the bolt tq 100, the tq wrench may automatically snap as if 105 cause it's not sensitive enough, not turning the bolt at all, leaving it at 100, where if first tq is 90 pretty much any tq wrench will turn the bolt to 105, or closer to 105 than the above scenerio. I go a step above and after break in procedures I cool 24 hours and check tq again. But I'm anal like that. After that no maintenance is reqd. And if something happens that causes a breach, unlike ANY OTHER setup, the copper Oring block oem Hgs and bolts, reseals, and i don't mean good enough to baby home, or you used to run 38psi but now 24 is the limit, I'm talking reseal back to perfect. It's because is the oring groove is right in the center of the oem hg ss fire ring and this puts such an increased pressure on the fire ring area against the block deck and cylinder head and unlike blowing thru the hg surface sealing, the rings create a wall and don't allow blow thru so it all seals back up. Another crucial step, don't over deck the heads. The ceiling/deck on the cylinder heads where the coolant passages are is thin. Start decking material off and it gets too thin, flexes and contributes to coolant push issue. There are machining/spec rings stamped into the cylinder heads on the outcropping tabs on the deck surface, beyond where the hg cover but on the deck surface so its cut/shaved when decked so that a quick glance can show how much material has been cut. If the rings are gone the cylinder heads are boat anchors. The rings should be deep, easily visible. Whenever any machine work is done the instructions to the machine shop should always state: "Machine the least amount of material possible to straighten deck and clean for proper Ra surface for MLS gaskets, the lightest kiss across the deck possible" My machine shop always listens to these instructions and I always get back true, clean decks with minimal material removal and without having to measure I can see the deep factory stamped rings. THIS IS JUST AS IMPORTANT as every other step. It sucks to throw a set of heads away esp if they have port work, larger valves etc, but it beats blowing coolant at 20psi ********************
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